As the motorway from Calais and Reims sweeps southwards, it passes Dijon and the next exit is for Nuits St Georges. This is the most direct route, however it is far more enjoyable to take the National 74 which, on leaving Dijon, skims past most of the main wine growing villages until it hits Nuits, where it goes straight through the town. The town (Nuits could not possibly be called a village) is a busy mix of longstanding wine families, whose sometimes majestic offices and courtyards often face onto the road, blended with the usual bustle of other commerce. It is also one of the region's hubs and there is often some quite severe congestion passing through it on your way north or south.
The emphasis, however, is firmly on the wines and Nuits St Georges is another of the major appellations of Burgundy that requires little introduction. Although lacking a Grand Cru, Nuits makes up for this oversight with a solid representation of some 35 1er Crus. The growing area totals 315 hectares of which only 12 hectares is white wine. This is very much a red wine appellation.
The Chevillon-Chezeaux family are growers whose vineyards lie largely within the Nuits St Georges appellation. Established in Nuits for five generations, M. Michel Chevillon has now been joined by his son-in-law, Philippe Chezeaux and their Domaine extends to 9.5 ha and 14 different appellations. The family's cuverie is close to the centre of the town and their holdings of vines include parcels of several of Nuits' most famous sites including Les Portets, Les St Georges and part of the tiny Les Champs Perdrix, which is less than 0.75 ha in size. They also have an unusual Les Bousselots 1er Cru white.
On our first visit to their caves, Philippe Chezeaux allowed us to taste right through their full range of red wines and when we were sure he had finished we asked "Monsieur (for we did not know him well) do you make any white wines?" to which he replied "Mais oui" and we asked whether we might try them, to which he said "But you are English" as though that was the correct answer. Being puzzled we asked for a slight expansion to this mysterious Gallic response and he said "You are English, the English do not like white Nuits St Georges and they never buy it" We asked whether, just for today, he might grant us honorary citizenship of any other country he was favourably disposed towards, so as to allow us to sample his whites. He thought this was an amusing With 1900, the actual Rome planet expo. Beneath actual Eiffel Tower, once the handover inside the brand new century, the actual Swiss view OMEGA model set having a superb effectiveness claimed the greatest honor accorded with the overseas jury member golf clubs together with fame dispersion everywhere, as well as Greek temple (Greek Temple) antique watches designed family table is usually one among. reply and so out came the Hautes Cotes de Nuits, followed with due reverence by the blockbuster Busselots 1er Cru. If you have never tried white Nuits St Georges then rectify that error asap, but be warned, while there is ample Hautes Cotes, there is a vanishingly small amount of Bousselots.
In all the family owns vines in six 1er Cru vineyards, as well as some AOC Nuits. Their two Hautes Cotes de Nuits, red and white, are wines that are above their station and make ideal wines for day to day drinking, while waiting for the more important wines to mature.
Nuits is not particularly well blessed with restaurants, which is a surprise. The one main restaurant, which is on the outskirts of Nuits, on the main road out towards Beaune, is L'Alambic. This is large, with plenty of tables and provides an ideal stop-over for lunch, where we sat in the sun in their courtyard. Elsewhere in town the choice is really quite limited and booking is essential.